Mae Tha (2)

Long couple of days. Have now done nine interviews here (plus sitting in on interminable CF Fund meeting) and am starting to understand how things work. Hooray! Some direction at last. Checked with Thoord's wife Bim, who acts as village archivist, who added some detail but broadly agreed.

Was talking to people about additional income options (apart from agriculture) and it turns out that a few people earn a bit of extra dosh by acting as golf caddies! In the middle of this protected area of National Parks, conservation forest and narrow strips of agricultural land disgraced ex-Prime Minister Thaksin built a huge golf resort which sits like a spaceship a few miles out of town. His wife is currently standing trial for tax evasion - I hope they get them both.

Mae Tha (1)

The four of us got off the night train just as it was getting light at a little halt just outside Doi Khun Tan National Park. Station completely deserted except for a pack of dogs. Picked up by Thoord, leader of the local agricultural co-op, and driven several miles down windy roads to his house for breakfast. Mae Tha is a narrow valley in the mountains, surrounded by forest. Small quantity of flat agricultural land - paddy, baby corn and fruit orchards. Seven linked villages - first impressions - very prosperous, tarmacked roads, several shops and quite a few new houses - highly varnished, tiled roofs and neat gardens. Thoord had arranged for a young volunteer - Pee King - from the co-op to show us about. We met the leader of the local natural resources committee, who is famous for his part in the national struggle for community forests, and who is now concentrating on local issues rather than national ones. Pee King took us to meet several groups of women who were shucking baby corn, but they were reluctant to talk to outsiders. We had a similar experience with other women later. On talking to Thoord it seems that a researcher from Chiang Mai visited recently and put villagers' backs up with her arrogant attitude. Personally I think that this area is so well known, and so well written up in the literature it's just that villagers are sick of answering questions! On the other hand, because there is so much written there is a lot of secondary data which could come in very handy once I find out where and what it is.

So what do you do all day?

Monday - Friday, if not in the field, spend the day at Kaset. Up at sevenish, fruit and yoghurt for breakfast, pack up the laptop and then off to the University via Skytrain and taxi. In the library until 12.00, then lunch in the canteen. In the afternoon more of the same, work with Bee, pester RECOFTC staff with questions. 4.30 is chucking out time, then it's swimming on Mondays, Weds and Fridays, or yoha in the Sports Centre Tuesdays and Thursdays. This not only counteracts all the sitting about but also means that I miss the main evening traffic jam, which can turn a 35 min door to door journey into an hour-long trek.

In the field we could be working (or hanging about waiting to interview someone) from first thing in the morning to 11.00 at night, so a little routine while I'm in Bangkok is useful.

Off to Chiang Mai tomorrow on the night train for four days at Mae Tha CF.

Graduation

Friday was the Forestry Faculty's turn for graduation and the mayhem came to our corner of campus. We were overwhelmed with proud relatives and over excited students, all picnicking and taking photos of each other in caps and gowns before going off for the presentation ceremony. Bee had changed out of her jeans and plimsolls for the occasion and I took a few pictures of the new graduate who has spent five years doing a joint degree in forestry and social science.

A royal visitor

This week is graduation week at Kaset, and we are graced by HM Princess Chulaporn, the King's youngest daughter, who is here is give out the degree certificates. Every day for four days the junior students create an honour guard, lining the route she takes in and out of the University. They are not allowed to go far from their posts, as they have to be ready whenever she may appear. Consequently they are sitting out at the edge of the road in their formal uniforms and black shoes from late morning onwards.
I caught HM's departure this afternoon. At 4.50 everyone started looking up the road and the traffic police began diverting traffic from the main road in and out of Gate 1. The road emptied. The national anthem played over the PA and we all stood to attention. Then at five o' clock the royal cavalcade swept down the road. Everyone and everything was completely silent. Not a flag was waved or a photograph taken. As the royal yellow BMW went past, the line of students rippled as each one bowed or curtsied. The procession was made up of ten vehicles, including three traffic police cars and an ambulance in case of medical emergency while stuck in traffic. A pick up truck with three men in full dress uniform sitting in the back brought up the rear. We all held our breath while she went past. Then as soon as she was through the gate the spell was broken, the motorcycle taxis started up and life went back to normal.

Trip to villages (4)

For our last day the headwoman’s son gives us a lift to Ba Noi Hong (c 3 miles away) where we will do some more interviewing and stay the night. Idyllic farm - six little cows and a calf called Foremost after the dairy company. Area suffers from water shortages in the summer. Water (apart from drinking water) stored in fishponds and lotus ponds. OK to wash in but don't clean your teeth with pond water (very brown)! About 1m mosquitoes.

We set off on foot with Pi Ying (farmer's wife) to interview the neighbours, looking for younger people who have been to work outside the village and returned.

We interview young woman Urai wan Rakpan (Nam) aged 19, with two year old daughter. Very poor family. Landless. Day labourers. She and her husband leave the village to work on construction sites for several months at a time. Has been back in the village for 2 months to look after her mother in law who is v sick following accident when she was hit by a m’bike. Mother-in-law looks as if she has fractured several bones in her face, incl cheekbone and eye socket and right eye does not look good. Pi Ying tells us later that the accident happened in another village and the boy who hit her was the son of the local policeman. Witnesses were reluctant to come forward and she has received no compensation.

Then three up on the bike to another dairy farm where we interview young woman Neep Pow Wam Kotchalee (22) - grandfather keeps interrupting for a moan about CF regulations which mean he can’t take his cows to graze in the forest when he wants to.

Down the road we interview Rung Beakap (M) (29). Wife has gone to work in the factories in Petchaburi province, her home town. Has been away since April. He says she doesn’t like farm work. He helps his parents on the farm and looks after their daughter aged 2.

While we are there Mrs Lottery (Lotterlee) arrives. App one of the richest women in the village – a success story. She has the franchise to sell lottery tickets, among other activities. Later Pi Ying says she has over 100 rai of land.

The next day was the day preceeding the start of Buddhist Lent, so we went to the temple in the morning with our hosts,taking some offerings for the monks (food and a bunch of lotus). Only two monks in a small temple in the forest. Kids ran about during ceremony and showed me what to do. After the monks had eaten villagers scarfed the rest in double quick time. It was nice to see the people I had interviewed all together - could see the family groups - grandfather, Mrs lottery (lotterlee) etc . Then back to Bkok - 3.5 hours on a bus and that was quick because it's a public holiday.

Trip to villages (3) local government

In the morning of 15th July - Bee, Soot (video maker), woman from local NGO and I go with headwoman to pay a courtesy visit to the District Officer at District Office.

We are ushered into his large office w AC (and windows slightly open). Large tv and comfy seating area. Glasses of sweet flat drink are served on little glass coasters and crocheted doilies. Computer with plastic hood on - evidently unused. 12 rubber stamps on a carousel on his desk.

Woman from NGO introduces her project. Purpose: to equip villagers to be able to budget, analyse their incomings and outgoings, help them see where they could make savings. (Apparently debt is a problem in KRTT). KRTT selected as pilot area .

This type of project ‘back to the villages, back to self sufficiency’ supported by the King. District Officer grandly promises support and co-ordination with community leaders in order to let everyone knows about it. Headwoman tells him that Director General of Dept of Environmental Quality Promotion visiting KRTT in September, and they will need to plan for this. As soon as headwoman starts talking District Officer picks up newspaper and starts reading it.

I explain via Bee what I am interested in. District Officer patently does not understand and says go to Isaan if you want to know about migration. He mentions ‘alternative employment’ in a long speech he has evidently made before. I pounce on this and ask via Bee what his office is doing to promote alternative employment in the area. He flounders about elephants – people are like elephants, they both need the natural resources of the area. Bee looks confused – should I translate? No. He then goes on about how an elephant festival in another area has been very successful. Bee keeps gamely trying my question but he obviously doesn’t have an answer. Others are trying not to laugh and /or secretly looking at the paper themselves. He bangs on for 10 mins more then we politely take our leave. Outside everyone laughs – shouldn’t expect anything else - but also a little embarrassed that their local govt so hopeless.