The four of us got off the night train just as it was getting light at a little halt just outside Doi Khun Tan National Park. Station completely deserted except for a pack of dogs. Picked up by Thoord, leader of the local agricultural co-op, and driven several miles down windy roads to his house for breakfast. Mae Tha is a narrow valley in the mountains, surrounded by forest. Small quantity of flat agricultural land - paddy, baby corn and fruit orchards. Seven linked villages - first impressions - very prosperous, tarmacked roads, several shops and quite a few new houses - highly varnished, tiled roofs and neat gardens. Thoord had arranged for a young volunteer - Pee King - from the co-op to show us about. We met the leader of the local natural resources committee, who is famous for his part in the national struggle for community forests, and who is now concentrating on local issues rather than national ones. Pee King took us to meet several groups of women who were shucking baby corn, but they were reluctant to talk to outsiders. We had a similar experience with other women later. On talking to Thoord it seems that a researcher from Chiang Mai visited recently and put villagers' backs up with her arrogant attitude. Personally I think that this area is so well known, and so well written up in the literature it's just that villagers are sick of answering questions! On the other hand, because there is so much written there is a lot of secondary data which could come in very handy once I find out where and what it is.
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